Ortolan - Los Angeles - calendarlive.com

Ortolan

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8338 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles
323-653-3300

Hours: Mon.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6-10:30 p.m. Full menu served in the bar until midnight.

Critic's rating:

Read the complete review by S. Irene Virbila

Readers' rating:

Reader reviews: Write a review | Read other reviews

Crispy pork belly with morels.

The extravagant special-occasion restaurant with maxed-out service, exquisite appointments and a menu with breathtaking prices is losing ground just about everywhere. Does that spell the demise of the grand French restaurant? Mais non. But there has been a shift in tastes, and restaurateurs are struggling to catch up. Young French chefs in particular are having a hard time. They've trained since 14, endured years as underlings in hierarchical kitchens, worked incredibly long hours and now is their moment, just when the audience for haute cuisine is dwindling.

What to do? Sex it up.

Enter Ortolan, the new restaurant on 3rd Street in Los Angeles from former L'Orangerie chef Christophe Emé and his partner, actress Jeri Ryan. This is L'Orangerie for a new generation -- just as glam, but more relaxed in style.

-- S. Irene Virbila
Times Restaurant Critic
May 11, 2005

Cross street: King's Road

Reader Reviews

August 23, 2006

joe fullerton, ca

I've had the good fortune to sample most of the premier chef owned restaurants in Southern California. This is by far one of the best. Ortolan offers a diverse menu with subtle complexity in near-perfect portions. The duck with cherries was fantastic as was the melting chocolate cake (with a perfect espresso). The fois gras terrine would prevail anywhere in the world. Good decor and atmosphere and service, though the latter needs some refinement.

April 13, 2006

dawn marie devine los angeles, ca

it's refreshing to find a classy and creative restaurant in the neighborhood- friendly and warm, and well worth the price. Christophe Eme's exciting menu, coupled with his sense of humor and serious attention to what makes modern French cuisine tres chic, promises a romantic evening, one to stimulate all the senses- from palate to pleasure.

March 20, 2006

Carl Los Angeles, CA

Pretentious and self-absorbed. Possibly the stingiest portions in LA for the ransom you pay. Add the $25 corkage fee and you begin to long for the Olive Garden. The room was so dark that EVERYONE had to be given little special flashlights to squint through a hard to read menu. Lamb should have been spectacular for the price, yet is was average. Give them a 10 for presentation, 10 for atmosphere and a 3 for experience. Personally the bar was the best experience. $450 for 4 people.

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Venue Details

Cuisine	French
Rating
Ambience	Warm and inviting French restaurant with rows of chandeliers, cream leather banquettes and a sexy skylit bar with pots of herbs in the walls. Chic, but casual, Ortolan gets a mix of serious foodies and young Hollywood just out to have fun.
Best dishes	Crispy langoustines, slate-roasted scallops, seared foie gras en cocotte, escargots, fillet of beef with marrow bone, roasted squab.
Best table	One of the banquettes with high wraparound cream leather back.
Desserts	Chocolate soufflé tart, pear clafoutis.
Of Note	Full menu served in the bar until midnight. Full bar. Valet parking.
Prices	Appetizers, $16-$110; main courses, $29-$38; desserts, $10; chef's menu, $120 per person.
Service	Getting on track with a new manager.
Wine list	Expensive and predictable. Corkage, $25.

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