Providence

French chefs always say that seafood is much more interesting and challenging to cook than meat. It's the difference between playing an instrument with a range of an octave or two and one that encompasses a slew of notes. At Providence, the most ambitious new restaurant to open in Hollywood in a long, long time, chef Michael Cimarusti is busy proving that fish trumps meat almost every time.

Just when fine dining seems to be out of fashion in Los Angeles, it's thrilling to find a young chef with the moxie and the talent to envision something new with seafood as his medium. This, I promise, is one worth a detour.