Ortolan
8338 W. 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA
King's Road
323-653-3300
The extravagant special-occasion restaurant with maxed-out service, exquisite appointments and a menu with breathtaking prices is losing ground just about everywhere. Does that spell the demise of the grand French restaurant?
Mais non. But there has been a shift in tastes, and restaurateurs are struggling to catch up. Young French chefs in particular are having a hard time. They've trained since 14, endured years as underlings in hierarchical kitchens, worked incredibly long hours and now is their moment, just when the audience for haute cuisine is dwindling.
What to do? Sex it up.
Enter Ortolan, the new restaurant on 3rd Street in Los Angeles from former L'Orangerie chef Christophe Emé and his partner, actress Jeri Ryan. This is L'Orangerie for a new generation -- just as glam, but more relaxed in style.
-- S. Irene Virbila
Times Restaurant Critic
May 11, 2005
Hours: Mon.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6-10:30 p.m. Full menu served in the bar until midnight.
Venue Details
| Cuisine |
French
|
| Rating |
|
| Ambience |
Warm and inviting French restaurant with rows of chandeliers, cream leather banquettes and a sexy skylit bar with pots of herbs in the walls. Chic, but casual, Ortolan gets a mix of serious foodies and young Hollywood just out to have fun.
|
| Best dishes |
Crispy langoustines, slate-roasted scallops, seared foie gras en cocotte, escargots, fillet of beef with marrow bone, roasted squab.
|
| Best table |
One of the banquettes with high wraparound cream leather back.
|
| Desserts |
Chocolate soufflé tart, pear clafoutis.
|
| Of Note |
Full menu served in the bar until midnight. Full bar. Valet parking.
|
| Prices |
Appetizers, $16-$110; main courses, $29-$38; desserts, $10; chef's menu, $120 per person.
|
| Service |
Getting on track with a new manager.
|
| Wine list |
Expensive and predictable. Corkage, $25.
|
