Vinh Loi Tofu

In a dining area barely bigger than a lunch truck, Kevin Tran presides over the counter and dining room of Vinh Loi Tofu, a Vietnamese vegetarian café and tofu factory in Reseda. He banters on a first-name basis with regulars who trickle in all day: mothers with children picking up takeout, a burly guy whose black T-shirt sports the moniker "Harley House Calls," a woman wearing a hijab who takes a few bottles of the factory's freshly made soymilk from the large refrigerator case by the doorway.