Cafe Balcony

You might miss this tiny storefront tucked into a nook just off Santa Monica Boulevard if you're not among the initiated — or if you come too early, as the shop doesn't open until noon. This is intentional, says owner Ray Sato, who likes the slower pace of the night crowd, among whom, he says, are students, architects, the inevitable screenwriters with laptops, also "a lot of acupuncturists." The little spot is laid out like a bar and has the feel of a place where you might strike up a conversation. You can play it safe and order a cappuccino, but if you need a conversation starter, order the siphon coffee, a cup brewed in a striking Teutonic contraption (invented in Berlin in the 1830s) that looks like a cross between a Chemex and a particle accelerator. You can choose among Sumatran, Indian Malabar, Guatemalan and AA Kenyan — also Sato offers specials, such as Kona or Jamaican Blue Mountain. A burner heats a vacuum chamber, which then pushes water up through the freshly ground beans and brews them at around 200 degrees. The coffee is phenomenal, with the body and flavor of a French-press cup, but with a much cleaner taste.