This cafe is in the middle of Beverly Hills, but get inside the tiny storefront and you'd think you were in Rome. A gorgeous copper Elektra espresso machine dominates the window, churning out authentic, perfectly made espressos and ristrettos while Italian soccer games play on the two televisions. Owner Vartan Kemanjian serves only Danesi coffee, as he likes the "chocolate finish at the end." His espresso is dense, rich and velvety, presented in cups with tiny spoons, both of which he keeps warm in an upper chamber shelf of the Elektra machine. While he chats up the loyal patrons — Italian expats, cops and local businessmen — he demonstrates the sugar test: Sprinkle a bit of sugar over the top of the espresso (Italians prefer it sweetened) and watch as the sugar stays on the top for 10 seconds or more before sinking into the thick crema. It's the mark of a truly well-made cup. If you're hungry, try a house-made pastry or panini or a salad made with fresh burrata while Kemanjian shows you pictures of the crowds that crammed into the tiny place during the World Cup.


