La Bodeguita de Pico

In one corner of the dining room, a pianist's hands fly over the keyboard, pounding out distinctly Cuban rhythms and warming the somewhat stark space with the sounds of Old Havana. Our waiter could have stepped out of the vintage black-and-white photos mounted on the walls that depict Papa Hemingway and a host of Hollywood grandees living the good life in the '40s at the original La Bodeguita del Medio in Havana.