La Poubelle

This storefront bistro, on a hip stretch of Franklin Avenue that wouldn't look out of place on the boulevard St. Germain, was serving reasonably authentic French cuisine long before most L.A. diners were introduced to their first piece of foie gras.

This is a narrow restaurant, with a long wooden bar on one side and tightly spaced tables lining the other (if you need a lot of elbow room, this is not your place). The cinnamon-colored walls are crowded with an eclectic array of art, from still lifes to Parisian streetscapes to French beverage posters. Hanging candelabras and fans give the rustic interior of this 35-year-old eatery additional character, but outside on the sidewalk is the place to be, at a candle-illuminated table under a broad burgundy awning.

Here you'll enjoy dishes like crêpes stuffed with chicken in a brandy-mushroom cream sauce, escargots Lyonnaise, niçoise salad, filet mignon, Dijon chicken with pommes frites, duck a l'orange, grilled salmon, pastas and chicken Marsala. A short but thoughtful selection of moderately priced French wines complements the traditional bistro fare. -- Roger J. Grody