Milano's Cucina Italiana

Milano's employs the same formula as some of the larger, undistinguished chains, with an honor system for the big bottles of house Sangiovese, pastas designed for mass appeal and oversized salads, all at attractive prices. But the food here happens to be a cut above most comparably priced chain trattorias.

A generous bruschetta plate, ravioli stuffed with pumpkin in a butter-sage sauce, crispy thin-crusted pizzas and excellent desserts are good bets. Tucked into a high-rise office building, the colorful, high-tech dining room features stylish accents of wood, stone and glass. A short but decent list of reasonably priced wines from California and Italy are offered, and the upbeat staff is noted for its hospitality. -- Roger J. Grody