Arnie Morton's, The Steakhouse - Beverly Hills
435 S. La Cienega Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA
310-246-1501

Throughout America, this chain of steakhouses is simply called Morton's, but since Arnie's son, Peter, claimed that name for his hot Hollywood hangout on Melrose, L.A.'s branch ended up with a more descriptive moniker. Morton's is Ruth's Chris' major competitor as both chains spread their USDA Prime beef from Houston to Hong Kong. This restaurant is exactly what a steakhouse should look like: comfortable chairs, white-linened tables and lots of rich wood to give it a masculine, clubby feel.

The shtick here, which annoys purists but delights most others, is a visual presentation of the menu by the waiter as he rolls up a cart stocked with massive hunks of raw beef, gargantuan heads of broccoli and potatoes the size of cantaloupes. It's an impressive show-and-tell, but the real reward is when these quality items return to your table fully cooked.

Appetizers include steakhouse favorites such as shrimp cocktail and spinach salad, as well as less traditional items such as black bean soup. A choice of outstanding soufflés -- chocolate, Grand Marnier or lemon -- steal the show for dessert. The excellent wine list is naturally rich in full-bodied reds.



Hours: Mon.-Sat., 5:30-10 p.m.; Sun., 5-10 p.m.