Sushi Roku - West Hollywood

Sushi Roku on 3rd Street is rockin'. Literally. The decor features pebbles and rocks set into the walls and boulders along the floor. There's a congenial bar populated with people in black. Fortunately, this place doesn't get by on good looks alone: The sushi is very good. Be sure to try the fried calamari, too, or the seafood ceviche in avocado sauce spiked with shiso and capers. Nightly specials such as octopus sashimi or Santa Barbara prawns with baby abalone are often terrific. The wine list is surprisingly well-edited. And Sushi Roku is open late.
Excerpted from "All You Can Eat," Los Angeles Times Magazine, March 15, 1998