230 Forest

It's always martini time at this sidewalk cafe in Laguna Beach. Primo people-watching is the deal here, and the mostly seafood menu is artistically presented. Cioppino is a crowd favorite, and a choice of oysters, calamari or chicken can be ordered to top your Caesar salad. Don't worry, there's plenty of meat for you caveman types: Filet mignon and brandy-smoked baby back ribs are augmented by daily specials such as rack of lamb and veal chops.

Cool, spare decor is fluffed out by comforting touches like the house's thick butternut squash soup and chocolate croissant bread pudding. How many kinds of martinis do they serve? Thirteen at last count.