Houston's

Despite concerns over cholesterol and fat, the current decade has been a boon for cattle ranchers, as steakhouses are sprouting up on every corner, and beef-industry commercials remind us it is beef we really crave, not sushi or kebabs or dim sum.

The Pasadena edition of Houston's is a graceful study in glass, metal and stone. Cozy burgundy booths with polished cherrywood tables are illuminated by track lighting and high-concept brushed metal chandeliers that resemble inverted artichokes. This restaurant successfully accommodates every occasion from power lunches to family snacks to hot dates. Oversized salads complement a bevy of all-American beef dishes, suddenly as popular in the 1990s as they were in the 1950s: roast aged prime rib, hardwood-grilled filet mignon, a lusty 22-ounce porterhouse steak and barbecued ribs with a tangy sauce. Man-sized cheeseburgers, veggie burgers and Texas chili burgers are also available. Pastas and daily fish specials round out the menu.

Open for lunch and dinner daily. -- Roger J. Grody