Vincenti

Vincenti's new chef, Nicola Mastronardi, is cooking gutsy, delicious food -- from tender octopus salad perfumed with lemon, grilled seppioline with beans or lentils to wonderful pastas, such as bucatini all' amatriciana, any of which would do Vincenti's namesake, Mauro Vincenti, proud. Whole fish cooked in the wood-burning rotisserie is worth mentioning, as is the pigeon with peperonata and baby onions, just the dish for a Brunello di Montalcino or a Barolo or arbaresco with some age on it. However, unless you have very deep pockets, wine prices are prohibitive.