The Britannia

A scrappy contender with loyal regulars and wildly uneven food offerings. Guys in shirts proclaiming English soccer team allegiances hang out on the smokers' patio; inside the two-story space are hanging pictures of tall ships, ocean liners and other seafaring vessels. Britannia is known for its fish and chips, which are hot, light and fresh even at odd hours, and served with a fabulous curry dip. But other dishes disappoint: Sausage rolls are soggy and a samosa is just silly, falling apart around a filling of thin mashed potatoes and peas. Anglo-Indian dishes such as a bland chicken vindaloo are just weird. Breakfast all day and a small selection of tap beers, including Guinness, Harp and Bass. Wonderful jukebox.