This German bar and restaurant sells bratwurst and carries plenty of brews from the Fatherland, some served in outrageously large portions. Downstairs, a magnificent organist makes like a one-man jukebox, covering recognizable songs one after the next. He also plays a horn. Sometimes, customers or staff sing along. Upstairs, there's a small room at the top of the stairs. It's easy to miss, and that's the way the regulars like it. Past the cigarette machine and the pay phone is the large outdoor patio. The waitresses wear traditional-looking Bavarian threads. With a biergarten like this in the neighborhood, why bother with Octoberfest in Munich? Oom-pa-pa, indeed.
-- Jeremy Rosenberg


