Zeke's Smokehouse

An array of barbecued delights is served at Zeke's in Montrose.

After years as executive chef at 72 Market and later Maple Drive, Leonard Schwartz has left haute American cuisine behind ... and gone into the barbecue business in Montrose. Zeke's Smokehouse is a collaboration among Schwartz, former Reign executive chef Michael Rosen and Ron and Kirk Gelsinger, father-and-son partners in the local butcher shop Gelsinger's Meats.

On a recent visit, both chefs were in house. Schwartz sported a double-breasted chef's jacket while Rosen looked dapper in a white coat, a meat thermometer tucked in his pocket.

The walls of the sparkling new regional barbecue restaurant and takeout are covered with black-and-

The walls at Zeke's are covered with black-and-white photos of barbecue specialists at work around the country.

white photos of barbecue specialists at work around the country.

A board at the back lists what's on offer -- everything from Memphis baby back ribs or Kansas City spare ribs to Texas beef brisket and hot links, sold both a la carte or as BBQ platters with a choice of two sides. If you love pulled pork, Zeke's Carolina pulled pork sandwich is worth trying.

What sets Zeke's apart is the quality of the meats, the precision of the cooking and the sides. When you can order made-from-scratch beans, a classic all-American potato salad and an astonishing, freshly made applesauce, what's not to like? Not to forget hush puppies, potato chips made on site and, for those trying to do the good thing, grilled vegetables.

In a real departure from tradition, instead of Wonder Bread, you get fresh-baked white bread. This I can live with.

It's not all barbecue, though. Zeke's specialties include a beef and pork meatloaf, the chili Schwartz served at both 72 Market and Maple Drive, and for those who can't handle the meat feast, a simple grilled salmon and vegetables.

Leave room for dessert. Some of us might make a special trip just for the hot fudge sundae or the highfalutin' giant brownie with a fudgy dark center, to say nothing of the IBC root beer float.

The question is not whether this new barbecue concept will succeed. It's: Where will the next location be?