Mamita's Restaurant
714 S. Brand Blvd.
Glendale, CA
Windsor Road
818-243-5121

This tiny establishment on Glendale's auto row, sporting red tablecloths and Peruvian folk art on white stucco walls, is a neighborhood gem worth discovering (even if you do not happen to live in Glendale). When you've had enough Italian trattorias and Chinese takeout, you may find that Mamita's is a good introduction to one of the New World's most fascinating cuisines.

The item that you should order here is the papas a la huancaina, a signature Peruvian dish made with boiled potatoes topped with a creamy chili-inflected cheese sauce. Although there are many minor variations of this simple dish, Mamita's offers one of the best renditions around. You could make a meal of this specialty alone. However, the citrus-marinated shrimp, squid and octopus, fried fish in teriyaki sauce (reflecting a substantial Japanese presence in Peru), fried chicken, shrimp and peanuts in hot red sauce, and breaded steak are all worthy complements to the prized dish of spuds.

Hours: Tue.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.