The Counter

Build your own burger, eh? I knew my friend Richard would sign on for this expedition. And, in fact, when I arrived at the Counter in Santa Monica a half hour late because of the rain, I found him busily checking off categories on his menu. Oh, the decisions to make!

Step 1 is to choose a burger patty. That would be beef, turkey or veggie. Then its size, as in 1/3-, 2/3- or the humungous full-pound model. Then a cheese, which can be anything from Greek feta to jalapeño jack. Choose up to four toppings, and make 'em wild. How about grilled pineapple with roasted chiles, dried cranberries and sprouts?

Just kidding. But you can, in fact, order any of the above, and more. Then you might be drawn in further by the premium toppings, which our waiter assured us are more than worth it. I could have gone for the honey-cured bacon, homemade guacamole or sautéed mushrooms (but not the sun-dried tomatoes, I'm afraid).

Too much choosing. Because then come sauces, followed by rolls.

It had been a long day. So I went for one of the already-built burgers from the signature burger menu, in my case the "Old School," a modest 1/3-pound beef with Tillamook cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and relish. Since the beef is freshly ground in house, certified organic and from a family farm in Montana, $6.25 seems more than fair. The burger is delicious too. Though no one asks how you'd like it cooked, it arrives medium rare on a bun with some heft to it.

One of my guests built a rather restrained (in that he didn't avail himself of all the options allowable) and quite successful burger, a 1-pounder with provolone and roasted chiles. The possibilities, as you can see, are enormous.

The Counter is also right in step with our dietary times, with its Burger in a Bowl (the Counter Salad), a burger without the bun, served on a bed of lettuce -- or mixed baby greens.

The setting is casual, with an industrial-loft feel. At lunch, the windows roll right up to the ceiling so it's almost like eating outside.

There's a short wine list, plus some decent beers, even a Hefeweizen, making this burger restaurant a date possibility. But kids are welcome, too, with mini burgers and PB&J sandwiches. Not to mention old-fashioned root beer floats, shakes and malts from the fountain.

The menu even includes a few starters, namely crispy fried onion strings and French fries. But also peculiarly addictive fried dill pickle chips.

I know, I didn't believe it either.