Il Tiramisu

This eatery tends to stand out among Ventura Boulevard's dozens of virtually interchangeable trattorias. It is a pleasant restaurant, with a terra cotta-floored central bar/foyer flanked by two dining rooms whose mustard walls are lined with Italian art posters and cityscapes. Candlelit tables are covered in white linen, providing a hint of elegance in an otherwise casual environment.

Hands-on owner Ivo Kastelan and son Peter work the room, making sure all are enjoying a relaxed night out, whether it's a first date or supper with the kids. The Caesar salad is draped with thin sheets of Parmigiano-Reggiano and has a lemony dressing with hint of anchovy. The asparagus and onion risotto may be a bit bland but the papardalle, loaded with porcini mushrooms in a creamy white wine sauce, is a standout.

Fresh fish, thin-crusted pizzas, veal Milanese and roasted pork tenderloin in red wine sauce round out a moderately priced trattoria menu. And the tiramisù? Attractively presented in a delicate chocolate tulipe, it may not be the best you've ever had, but it should rank pretty high. Meal for two: $60.