While this place often goes unmentioned during passionate debates over the relative merits of Ruth's Chris and Arnie Morton's, JJ is clearly one of the better steakhouses in the L.A. area, and certainly one of the most impressive looking. It is comfortably located three levels above Colorado Boulevard, a quiet sanctuary compared to the crowded trattorias on street level. Beyond the marble-clad entrance, the dining room is filled with elegantly dressed tables and cozy booths, and a mixture of modern and classic objets d'art. A big stone fireplace provides a touch of warmth and additional seating is available on a veranda overlooking the Old Pasadena street scene, perfect for voyeuristic cigar smokers.
Among the appetizers are a fabulous shrimp cocktail served atop a crispy potato cylinder. Dinners come with an old-fashioned wedge of iceberg lettuce with crumbled blue cheese and a balsamic vinaigrette that is surprisingly satisfying. The steaks, seared at high temperatures to lock in the juices, are among the best you'll find in these parts--but perhaps a shade beneath the standards of the above-mentioned icons. And should there be a non-carnivore in your party, rest assured the seafood here (Chilean sea bass, ahi tuna, salmon) is excellent. Meal for two: $90.
--Roger J. Grody
