Abuelitas

There aren't too many places in L.A. where you can sip a margarita high above a burbling creek, in a rustic, sycamore-shaded canyon with nary a hint of urban life within miles. Abuelitas distinguishes itself in a city where most Mexican restaurants offer interchangeable experiences and predictable, nearly identical menus.

The interior resembles an aging hacienda, with its big stone fireplace and pumpkin walls adorned with Southwestern landscapes and portraits, as well as vibrantly colored Mexican ceramics. While the menu offers many of the usual border favorites (burritos, pork enchiladas with tomatillo sauce, carne asada), the kitchen's repertoire extends well beyond the usual suspects, including some intriguing home-style recipes from Mexico City.

Among the starters are a solid black bean soup, shrimp quesadilla and a trio of empanadas. For entrees, soft tacos are filled with shrimp sautéed in a luxurious lobster sauce, crab-mushroom enchiladas are served with both tomatillo and creamy chipotle sauces, and chicken, stuffed with mushrooms, cheese and spinach, is enhanced with a mushroom cream sauce. For dessert, consider chocolate-dipped, custard-filled chimichangas. Dinner for two: $40.