SPECIAL RESTAURANT ISSUE: LOTUS LAND

Twists on tradition

Formerly obscure ingredients, amped-up traditional dishes and design-conscious cooking tools inspire L.A.'s new Asian style.

June 19, 2005

William Aidasson

India's best dough

For thin-is-in bread lovers, think dosa, the bubbly South Asian confection that starts as a slightly fermented batter of rice and lentils and is spread into hyper-thin ovals before it's cooked to desired crispness. More than a dozen varieties are available at the Annapurna restaurants, including an extra-brittle paper dosa. Indians love to stuff them with potatoes cooked with onions and spices (masala dosa) or serve them with chutney.

Annapurna Cuisine, 10200 Venice Blvd., Culver City, (310) 204-5500; Annapurna Express, 17631 S. Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, (562) 403-2200.

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William Aidasson

The matcha mystique

Once found only at traditional Japanese tea ceremonies, matcha green tea powder, said to contain powerful antioxidants and detoxifying properties, is now turning up in Coffee Bean Ice Blendeds, Jamba Juice smoothies, pastries, ice cream and soup. At Little Tokyo's Rafu Bussan emporium, store owner Skip Kawaratani guides shoppers along shelves of tea cans and bags that include the coveted Maeda-en version: $11 for a one-ounce can.

Rafu Bussan, 326 E. 2nd St., Los Angeles, (213) 614-1181.

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William Aidasson

Berry healthful

An obscure berry long used in traditional Tibetan and Chinese medicine is emerging as the new health food. At the tony Kinara, the goji berry is touted as the "ultimate antioxidant" and is a key ingredient in the spa café's breakfast granola, Snack Time trail mix and entree salad of apple, walnuts and greens. Also known as the wolfberry, the cranberry/cherry-flavored fruit is especially prized by the Chinese for its liver and vision-boosting properties—the better to see and digest rich foods.

Kinara, 656 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 657-9188.

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William Aidasson

The jaded chopstick

Ever since Confucius deemed knives too crude for the table, chopsticks have been Asia's utensils of choice. Elizabeth An of Crustacean restaurant says they also should be as beautiful as they are functional. For her home accessories line, An has designed chopsticks handmade in Vietnam from ebony moonwood and jade.

An Family Collection chopsticks, $142 per pair, at anfamily.com or at Crustacean, 9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 205-8990.

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William Aidasson

Unrestrained art

"They're just strainers, but aesthetically, they're beautiful strainers," says Keiko Shinomoto of the Sori Yanagi-designed kitchen implements available at her home accessories store, Tortoise. The 91-year-old Yanagi pioneered a blend of Asian minimalism and Western industriousness; these strainers are no exception. They're made of industrial punching metal (as opposed to the conventional woven mesh) for durability and ease of cleaning.

Tortoise, 1208 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 314-8448. The strainers range from $19 to $41.

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William Aidasson

Little Saigon's other noodle dish

Bun bo Hue, the Vietnamese fire-red beef and pork soup laden with spaghetti-size rice noodles and assorted garnishes, has soared in popularity. Unlike pho, its milder noodle soup relative, the lemony, gingery dish can seem excessively hot and funky to untrained palates. But the restaurant An Cuu Hue offers a deliciously tame version topped with delicate crab meatballs. Amp up the pungency with its homemade lemon grass-chile condiment.

An Cuu Hue, 10262 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove, (714) 534-2910.

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