A versatile cheese

Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese Arrive early, order ahead or face the fate of many an unlucky diner: The sandwiches are sold out. It happens just about every day. The No. 1 proves the beauty of keeping things simple: fresh Gioia mozzarella along with basil, tomato, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic on your choice of baguette or ciabatta.

• No. 1, $6. 223 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., (323) 856-8699.

Osteria La Buca Just about every Italian place in town does a caprese, but the one here is different. Ripe tomatoes are sliced thinly and fanned over the plate a la carpaccio then topped with a small mountain of bocconcini, those adorable little balls of mozzarella. Naturally there's basil and olive oil too. You can also get burrata served with Italian cold cuts or paired with a salad of julienne vegetables and wild arugula.

• Caprese, $9.25. 5210 1/2 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 462-1900.

Literati II Among the ways to begin a meal at this neighborhood sleeper is Chris Kidder's antipasto plate. Two portions of burrata nuzzle up to thin slices of La Quercia speck (smoked prosciutto), some wild arugula and Brandywine tomatoes. There's also crunchy grilled sourdough rubbed with garlic. The final touch is McGrath Farms black soy beans strewn over the plate.

• Antipasto plate, $15. 12081 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., (310) 479-3400.

Nello Cucina At this casual offshoot of the serious Italian restaurant Antonello, also at South Coast Plaza, you can get homemade gnocchi sautéed with a simple marinara sauce and mozzarella. Or if you prefer your mozzarella straight up, try the decadent ball of fresh burrata enrobed in prosciutto, baked quickly in the oven, and served on a bed of mixed organic greens. The latter is available Fridays only.

• Gnocchi, $13.95. 3333 S. Bear St., Costa Mesa, (714) 540-3365.

Ritual

After a five-month closure and makeover, the former White Lotus opened a few weeks ago as this sophisticated Pacific Rim dining room and lounge. To begin, fusion-

embracing chef Andrew Pastore offers a tomato and mozzarella napoleon with an East-meets-West twist: three kinds of basil and a house-made ponzu sauce.

• Napoleon, $12. 1743 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 463-0060.