BARCELONA

The buildings, many the work of the eccentric genius Gaudí, will blow you away. The art, with significant collections by Picasso and Miró, will make you clammy all over. The people, with their exuberance, their duende, their persistent egalitarianism, will fascinate you.

Population: 1600000

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Orientation
Barcelona's coastline runs roughly northeast to southwest and many streets are parallel or perpendicular to this. Two major hills - Montjuïc and Tibidabo - provide good landmarks for orientation. The focal point of town is La Rambla, a 1.25km (0.75mi) boulevard running northwest and slightly uphill from Port Vell (Old Harbour) to Plaça de Catalunya. The Plaça is the boundary between Ciutat Vella (Old Town) and the more recent additions further inland. L'Eixample, the city's 19th-century answer to overcrowding, stretches 1.5km (1mi) north, east and west of Plaça de Catalunya. Montjuïc begins about 700m (763yd) southwest of the southeastern end of La Rambla, and Tibidabo, with a landmark television tower and golden Christ statue, is 6km (4mi) northwest of the city.

The Ciutat Vella, a warren of narrow streets, centuries-old buildings and budget accommodation, spreads on both sides of La Rambla. Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is at its heart, on the lower half of the eastern section of the boulevard. West is El Raval, where travellers need to be alert; its southern part forms a seedy red-light district called Barri Xinès (Chinese Quarter). Port Vell has an excellent modern aquarium and two marinas, and at its northeastern end is La Barceloneta, the old sailors' quarter. Beaches and a pedestrian promenade stretch northeast from there to Port Olímpic, a harbour built for the 1992 Olympics and now home to lively bars and restaurants.

Dangers and Annoyances
Pickpocketing and theft are the problems most likely to rain on your holiday parade. Barcelona has been ranked Europe's worst city for credit card theft, petty crime is endemic and a string of experienced guidebook writers are among the list of hapless victims.

Keep only a limited amount of cash on you, and the bulk of your money in replaceable forms such as travellers cheques or plastic. Use your hotel safe. Money or valuables that you need to take out with you should be in a shoulder wallet or a concealed money belt. If you wear an external money belt, you might as well paint a big target sign on your back. Men should carry their swag in their front pockets only and women should wear bags across their bodies and never hanging from the shoulder. If you're carrying a daypack, even if it's on your back the whole time, don't leave valuables in any accessible pockets. Be particularly alert on the metro, in heavily touristed parts of town such as La Rambla and Barri Gotic and on the beaches in summer. Also, the port side of El Raval - what's left of the notorious Barrio Xines - is not the place to play the clueless tourist.